Top End on a '96 KDX 200
These are some pictures I took while doing the top-end on my KDX200. Use them for reference when doing your own KDX and to see what it is you're cleaning up! I was surprised at how much spooge I found inside the valve covers, in spite of how clean the piston and cylinder head were.
Bike History: I bought this bike used in October '01, as the 3rd owner. It appeared to not have been ridden much at all- the tank graphics were in almost new condition and "Kawasaki" on the seat is unworn. However, the previous owner was using motor oil on the air filter and who knows what oil in the engine. The bike was running extremely rich with stock jetting. I immediately started on Yamalube 2R, which I've found to be an excellent, clean burning, oil. Cleaned the Twin Air air filter with kerosene and washed out just tons of red dirt. Rode the bike casually for a couple of months, but started thinking about doing the top end in December. Plus, most KDX owners recommend cleaning the KIPS valves yearly and who knows when/if these were last done. Here we go!
First, here's the cylinder head, just as I pulled it from the bike. Spotless!! At this point, I was almost ready to clamp the thing back on and go riding, but I'm glad I didn't- read on.....
Here's the top of the piston. A little carbon- pretty typical of what my YZ250 looked like after the previous owner used BelRay MC-1 for a couple of years. Can't expect Yamalube to clear this up....
This is the shaft connecting the bottom end to the top end valve gears. It has a reverse thread and a flat spot. It is VERY important to support this shaft when tightening or loosening the nut. There's a flat spot right above my finger- I used a small adjustable wrench to hold the shaft. I'm pulling the rubber boot down in this shot to expose the shaft.
With the cylinder head sitting on my bench, it's time to disassemble the KIPS valve. Here's the gears that turn the valves via the connecting shaft from the bottom end. Still looking pretty clean....
